A 17-year journey, described as long, complex and frustrating, will soon be over.
This is the time it has taken to win legal protection for a 2,000-acre seascape and landscape on New Zealand’s North Island shore.
Australasian gannets, little blue penguins, killer whales, rare fish and many types of seaweed are amongst at least 600 species this coastal panorama boasts. Some species found last year were new to science and, in a month’s time, all will be part of the newly designated Taputeranga Marine Reserve, on the shores of the city of Wellington.
As the Taputeranga decision was announced in New Zealand last week, the High Court in Australia ruled that Aborigines should control 4,300 miles of Northern Territory coast. Commercial and non-indigenous fishing is now effectively banned in an area said to be the last bastion of a macho, non-indigenous fishing tradition.
The communities to benefit say they have fought for 30 years for the rights to a sea they believe to be theirs. Their management means they can develop a sustainable fishing industry.
On Bempton cliffs in East Yorkshire, about 8,000 northern gannets, closely related to the Taputeranga’s Australasian gannets, are raising several thousand of this year’s offspring.
These young birds will soon fly their craggy ledges to patrol inshore waters in benign, adolescent posses until they too come to breed in about four or five years’ time.
Bempton is England’s only mainland gannet colony and these noisy and quite idiosyncratic birds share this 3.5-mile clifftop RSPB reserve with puffins, razorbills, guillemots and kittiwakes.
More than 200,000 birds return to Bempton in summer, when breeding season activity transforms the site into the most mind-blowing of seabird spectacles.
It is raucously loud, it is undeniably smelly but its frantic busyness is mesmerising. It is life and death, it is a seabird metropolis, it is a privileged front seat view of nature in the raw.
Front seats at the best show, the best concert, the best match can cost a bomb. They can turn out to be worth it, they can be huge disappointments, especially if your team gets thrashed.
Front seats at Bempton, and there are many, cost nothing if you are an RSPB member and just a few quid if you are not. A visit is an hour or a day gripped by the avian fast-track that is hatching to flying and full-blown independence of mum.
Or hatching to plopping if you are a razorbill or guillemot. Turn up at the right time, on the right night, and thousands of these birds will be urging their three-week-old balls of fluff to slither and bounce more than 100 metres from the narrow shelves that have always been home, into the dark, cold, mysterious and dangerous sea below.
Much less of a mystery but just as thrilling is the RSPB’s ambition for Bempton. The reserve’s new manager, Ian Kendall, wants the site to be so good that every visitor Bempton welcomes goes home having had ‘a completely and utterly memorable experience’.
Bempton is such a great place that each of its 800 daily visitors in summer probably does already, yet big plans are still afoot. The importance of Bempton and the viewing opportunities it offers have made us think that it should become England’s national centre for seabirds. Scotland has one – the Scottish Seabird Centre, linked to Bass Rock, where gannets are the spectacle. Bempton has the potential to be just as good.
One role such a centre could perform would be to promote the cause of under siege albatrosses with a web link bringing close-up views of young birds from their cold and windswept Falklands nests to a screen very close to an armchair near you.
Another role Ian Kendall has in mind for the centre is to highlight the importance of legal protection for seabirds, other sealife and the UK’s best marine sites.
Amazingly, the UK has only three marine nature reserves – Lundy Island off the coast of Devon, Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire and Strangford Lough in County Down. No Bempton, no Bass Rock, not even St Kilda or South Stack on Anglesey make the grade.
How can this be? Well, during a long, complex and frustrating journey, the RSPB and many other groups have been urging UK governments to give our most important marine areas legal protection.
The foundations have been laid and a draft Marine Bill was published in April. The real deal is promised this December. Our expectations are high.
And so they should be. The seas around the UK have long been over-used, whether it be from fishing, dredging or development. They lack the safeguards afforded important areas on land yet still host a wealth of wildlife from fragile seahorses to gaping basking sharks and an astonishing 26 different nesting seabirds, including two-thirds of the world’s northern gannets.
Wellington has waited 17 years to win its golden prize, the Northern Territories’ Aborigines have waited 30 and it has been almost three decades since the campaign to protect the UK’s best marine zones began.
Let’s hope our government uses next year’s 30th anniversary to bring that campaign to fruition and finally protect seabirds where the spend most of their lives – at sea.
The gannets at Bempton and elsewhere are doing incredibly well but the species they share the cliffs and seas with are not. They need protection now. They have waited long enough.
Read more about the RSPB's marine campaign here