Today we had our final stop before the Falkland Islands, at Signy, in the South Orkney Islands. This is further south, so the weather was noticeably colder.
The base there is only open in the summer, so the ship stopped there to pick up the last scientists and shut the base for the winter. They were so efficient at closing the place that apart from to pick up cargo we didn’t get a chance to go ashore.
Since we left we’ve had nothing but fog, so, despite many an hour on the bridge, I’ve seen next to no wildlife. Hopefully it will clear up as we head north again. We are due in the Falklands on Saturday, and it will be great to get back to civilisation again, after almost 18 months away in the Antarctic.
After all the cargo work was finished yesterday, we finally got a chance to go ashore on Bird Island. This was the only base I didn't make it to on the journey down in 2004, so I was particularly looking forward to stopping here.
We had a quick cup of tea and catch up with the people wintering on the base, and then were taken up the hill behind the base to see the wandering albatrosses and their chicks.
It's an amazing place, covered with tussock grass and fur seals lurking behind every clump – some were a little feisty, which made the walk all the more interesting!
As we got towards the top of the hill, we saw the first albatross nests with chicks. I've seen lots of pictures of them, but until you are up close you don't realise quite how big they are! All of the nests are marked so the progress of the chicks can be checked periodically, but it was sad to hear the scientists say that the future looks very bleak for these birds.
The past couple of days we have spent at King Edward Point on South Georgia. This was my first walk on rock for 15 months, and the weather was stunning so we were all wearing t-shirts. Not bad for the start of winter!
I did lots of walking and wildlife-spotting. There were a few king penguins around, many scary fur seals, and piles of elephant seals laying around on the beaches sunning themselves.
I went for a walk with our doctor to a place called Maiviken, which has a lake full of baby fur seals, quite an amazing sight. We sat on a hill looking down in the sunshine to them playing in the water, while a skua and sooty albatross were soaring overhead. It was such an amazing place after the cold and emptiness of Halley.
Today we are at Bird Island, a research station on South Georgia. There is cargo work going on at the moment, and I’m on cleaning duties on the ship, but I’m hoping to get off to see the nesting wanderers later on today or tomorrow.
We left Halley on Monday and are heading north towards South Georgia. When we left it was -25 degrees C, and we could watch the sea freeze over, so it was definitely time to go! It was sad to leave, but the journey ahead will be great.
The first day of sailing was through the ice, so very calm, if a little noisy. I watched leopard seals float past on icebergs, and orcas looking for their next meal.
Yesterday we hit open water, and probably the roughest seas I’ve ever been in – no chance to get my sea-legs before the tough bits!
Still, I’ve been out on deck today and the ship is being followed by lots of birds, most notably lots of black-browed albatrosses, and also three sooties. It’s amazing how they soar so close to the waves and to the ship but never touch the water.
Hopefully it will calm down soon and warm up a little as we head north.