Trip reports
Autumn Trip to Skye: 19-22 September 2008
Friday, 19 September 2008
The twelve of us started Saturday with a wet walk along the shore north of Portree. It was a lovely walk and on a good day would have been superb. Few birds were braving the elements. Cormorants and Shags cowered on a small island, together with a collection of gulls and the one Kittiwake of the trip. Ravens swooped overhead, shrugging off the violent gusts of wind. On everyone's mind was that the boats to view the Sea Eagles would not sail in these conditions. We turned back, seeing Eider and Hoodies and a very tame Robin which came and hopped about between our feet.
Down to the quay to see if the boats were sailing, and to everyone's delight the skipper said "yes" as
he was able to use the sheltered water under the cliffs and avoid the worse of the spume-covered seas. The rain became patchy as we boarded our two boats and set off down the loch. Wilson, sharp-eyed as ever, spotted the first Sea Eagle soaring out over the Sound before it came nearer and flew around the boats then took up a stance on one of the cliffs. It was an adult male. It was offered fish, but it had obviously fed well and was not interested. We set off around the corner into the wind and the skipper pointed out to us the female perched on a stunted tree half way up the cliff.
On being offered fish she swooped down to snatch the fish out of the water just astern of the boats before wheeling along the cliff and offering it to her two chicks which shuffled into view along a ledge. Chicks they were, but very large chicks indeed! Dark brown in colour. We watched them for a while and had a repeat performance before setting off across the loch to a crag favoured by Golden Eagles but they were not at home. One boat stayed to fish for mackerel for the Eagles while the other made off for the pier. It had been a great morning!
After our packed lunch we set off at 2.30 pm to go around the northern part of Skye. We stopped at Loch Fada and Loch Leathan, all bare of birds, and to look at the Old Man of Storr appearing now and again out of the mist. We tarried at Tote to look at the scenery and at the sea, but the wind made it difficult to stand, never mind birdwatch. But the sun was out - for a while at least! We collected a few auks and Gannets, that was all.
Loch Mealt was the next stop where Jayne found two Dabchicks amongst the waves. Down to the shore at Stenscholl, but the cupboard was bare except for Rock Doves, Swallows, House Martins and Rock Pipits. Then on to view the rocks of the Quirang, visible sometimes in the swirling mist. Dramatic scenery, but again the wind was bitter and made standing difficult. Meadow Pipits scurried around, struggling to stay upright. Over the hills to Uig, and the café! A welcome break indeed, out of the elements and opportunities to birdwatch out of their big glass windows, but all we saw were Pied Wagtails and some distant Gannets.
We headed south and had not gone far when Wilson spotted a Golden Eagle to our left. Luckily it was a wide road there and we stopped in a jumble of cars to enjoy superb views of the juvenile Eagle as it flew across to our front almost overhead. Again a cry from Wilson as another one followed the first. This time a full adult. Wonderful views! Too soon they vanished behind some trees. On down the road heading for Loch Eyre we saw the couple again to our left and a little later a single Golden Eagle again to our left. We reached Loch Eyre, empty of birds, but then all good things must come to an end and it was time to head back to Portree.
Sunday was a better day with little wind as we made our way towards Elgol in the south of the island. First stop was Loch Sligachan where we found a few ducks, Mallard and Wigeon and some waders, Redshank, Oystercatcher and Curlew. Two Golden Eagles wheeled far above the peaks. East then on a very minor road through some long Gaelic names which I shall omit! Flocks of Siskin and Twite enlivened the journey towards Loch Ainort. At the base of the loch we found our first pale-breasted Brent Geese, a species that was to be very common throughout the day. We saw Stonechat, Red-breasted Merganser and Peregrine Falcon. There was a large flock of Oystercatchers amongst the Brent Geese.
The next stop was Broadford Bay at the Co-op car park which showed only an empty loch. On to meet our Waterloo, a very pleasant spot along the shore. More birds here, most of which were on the list, yet small birds were here in some numbers. Goldfinch, Chaffinch, Siskin, Wren, Coal Tit, Grey Wagtail, Dunnock, Blackbird and a Collared Dove. On the sea side probed two Bar-tailed Godwits, alone amongst the rocks. When an otter was sighted slightly further out we all enjoyed watching this agile creature as it fished and ate its catch in front of us.
We moved on to Ashaig and the graveyard where we had lunch and sallied out replete only to be drenched by a heavy shower. A retreat was duly beaten and we slipped sloppily into our cars. There were no birds at Ashaig, just seals. Brownie points to Anne for opening and closing the gate in that waterfall.
Back to Broadford and south towards Elgol. The first loch revealed nothing at all and that really signalled the result for much of the afternoon. We stopped at places down the shore of Loch Slapin but some Eider, two Red-throated Divers and a Black Guillemot were the only finds along the way. Into Elgol and there was little on the sea, but far to the south Wilson spotted two Sea Eagles wheeling amongst the Gannets. Remarkable eyesight! The café beckoned and we enjoyed our cakes and muffins. The weather had shifted gear and it was almost pleasant as we made our way back north. A sudden stop as a Golden Eagle, spotted this time by Jayne, flew low across us. A Buzzard perched like the monarch of the glen staring down on us. We stopped at Torrin and enjoyed close views of a flock of Twite. The mountains emerged out of the clouds and all of a sudden it was beautiful! Red deer could be seen on a high saddle and two Eagles wheeled amongst the peaks. The sun was warm and everything was right with the world!
Except the clock which said it was time to make our way back to Portree. Who found the Great Spotted Woodpecker in the garden? Wilson of course!
The next morning dawned bright and shining and we all regretted leaving such a beautiful place.
Some of us stopped at Roseisle on the way back and were rewarded with Black-throated Diver, Red-throated Diver, Scoter, Crossbill, and all the tits including Crested.
A lot of driving, but it was all worth it for such a good weekend of eagles, 14 in all. The trip total for the Skye part of the trip was 52 species.
Special thanks to Trevor Donaldson who set the trip up, arranged the itinerary and the excellent food at the Urquhart Caledonian Hotel and then, sadly, was unable to attend, and to Dave Gill for organising the boat trip.
Rodney Payne