Trip reports
CHILE, A LAND OF CONTRASTS
Saturday, 1 November 2008
Up at 5 am the following morning for a pelagic trip, then our hot water boiler exploded in a cloud of steam and soot. But leaving that problem behind we set off with fifteen others in a boat from Valparaiso to go twenty miles out into the Humboldt Current with a plentiful supply of chum [dead fish]. There were so many birds to see - fulmars, terns, petrels, shearwaters, skuas, cormorants, phalaropes and albatrosses. The highlights have to be Inca Tern, Black-browed Albatross, Royal Albatross, Buller's Albatross, the rare Chattan Island Albatross, Giant Petrel and Humboldt Penguin.
Returning to our accommodation, we were given a second room, one to wash in and the original room to sleep in, a satisfactory arrangement until the boiler could be repaired. Local birding the following day proved very frustrating as we kept getting lost in local villages which had no name signs. Major roadworks also added to the frustration but we managed a respectable list of birds, including Chilean Mocking Bird, Chiloe Wigeon, White Tufted Grebe, Pie-billed Grebe, Silvery Grebe, Great Grebe, Black-necked Swan, Cinnamon Teal, the fantastic many-coloured Rush Tyrant, Black and Turkey Vultures. And the return journey to Santiago was much easier. Just follow the signs Aeroporto!
Our first internal flight with Lan Air took us north from Santiago to Arica. We spent the first day driving in the Azapa Valley, an oasis in the Atacama. We eventually found Madam Theresa's Humming Bird Garden and were made very welcome as we were shown around. We were delighted with close up views of the Oasis Humming Bird and the Peruvian Sheartail. And there is a lot to be said for sitting on a hotel balcony at the end of the day, glass of wine in hand, watching the sun set over the Pacific, while green turtles feed in the sea and hundreds of Turkey Vultures head for their evening roost, and knowing that it is snowing back home!
From Arica we started the steep climb up to the village of Putre at 11,300 feet. Steep hills, hairpin bends and large potholes were negotiated with ease. More water problems were encountered as our hotel had only intermittent water supplies, making a visit to another restaurant necessary. At this altitude we had to move slowly as our heart rate increased and we felt breathless. A fairly restless night allowed us to acclimatise to the altitude and the following morning we were able to continue higher still to the fantastic Lauca National Park at 14,500 feet. Snow-capped volcanoes, lakes with Puna and Chilean Flamingos, Giant Coot, Puna Teal and Andean Goose, along with herds of Vicunas and Alpacas had us spellbound. On our return to Arica we passed a Bolivian lorry which had overturned on one of the hairpin bends, an indication that this is a road to be treated with respect.
A flight from Arica to Puerto Montt took us to central Chile, a much greener part of the country, with large, dense forests. Arriving in Puerto Montt in the dark compounded the problem of finding our accommodation. After driving around in circles for an hour, we eventually stumbled on our hotel and promptly bought two bottles of fine Chilean wine to soothe frazzled nerves!
The following day we caught the ferry to Chiloe Island. Here we found both Black-faced and White-faced Ibis with their metallic calls. We also saw flightless Steamer Ducks, Slender-billed Parrot, Cinereous Hawk and Plain-mantled Tit Spinetail amongst others. A carryout Japanese Sushi in the evening, completed a fascinating day.
Still in central Chile we drove through lush forests, stopping to look for birds and being rewarded with Stripe-backed Bittern, a very obliging Ringed Kingfisher and an Austral Negrito. We were also extremely lucky to spot a large cinnamon-coloured tarantula crossing the road yards from where we were parked. A photographic opportunity!
Another Lan flight took us from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas in the far south and our first encounter with the almost always-present wind. Punta Arenas is a lovely colonial-type of city with an easy to follow road system. In a small reserve in an industrial area of the town, we saw our first Upland Geese, some pure white, others with barred feathers.
We were hoping to catch a ferry to Tierra del Fuego but strong winds forced the ferries to cancel. Instead we drove to a penguin colony where Magellanic Penguins were incubating eggs in burrows. It was extremely difficult to keep upright in the gale force winds but the penguins were better adapted than we were! So too were the Lesser Rheas that were quite unconcerned by ruffled feathers.
The following day we set off south for the Reserve Forestal Laguna Parrilar and a lovely hour's walk through the forest, looking across a lake to snow-capped mountains in Argentina. A group of splendid Rufous-chested Dotterel entertained us along with Chilean Flicker, Spectacled Duck, Ashy-headed Goose, Austral Parrot and Black-chested Buzzard Eagle.
A drive through the Patagonian steppe revealed how flat, windswept and desolate the area is, with only herds of Guanaco and flocks of Lesser Rheas to relieve the boredom. A long drive of 250 km to Puerto Natales, followed by a further 168 km to Torres del Paine National Park was made easier by sharing the driving along straight, almost traffic-free roads. As we entered Torres del Paine National Park a South American grey fox was spotted feeding on a carcass and keeping Condors at bay! Dull, cloudy conditions prevented us from seeing the park at its best and steep, twisting, potholed dirt roads kept us on our toes. Our accommodation on Lake Pehoe was reached by crossing a wooden pedestrian bridge. In the evening the clouds cleared to allow us fantastic views of the "horns". impressive granite pillars of the Torres del Paine massif.
If we thought the wind in Patagonia was strong, it was nothing compared to what we were to experience in Torres del Paine! A cloudy, windy day didn't prevent us from exploring the park and a visit to Lago Grey with its glacier, led to a walk in a woodland and superb views of the red-headed Magellanic Woodpecker. Stopping to look at a waterfall we were amazed to see sheets of water being lifted from the lakes by the strength of the wind. But it was a bit alarming to be sitting in the parked car and actually feel the car being shifted by the wind.
The following day the weather deteriorated with heavy squalls of rain and sleet, reminiscent of the west coast of Scotland on a bad day! Mountains were hidden by cloud but we persevered and were rewarded with views of Southern Caracaras, Condors and Plumbous Rail. But no puma!
Leaving the park the next morning, we were treated to clear skies and the magnificence of the snow-capped mountains with Condors circling overhead. What a privilege. The long drive back to Punta Arenas signalled the start of the return journey home with a flight to Santiago, then Madrid, then
Heathrow and finally Aberdeen. Memories to treasure and a bird list of 177.
Anne Rigg and Dave Gill